Catskill Homesteader Chickens
In 2013, Maria started a breeding project to create locally adapted, winter hardy,
"eye candy" chickens that laid a rainbow of eggs. It was a successful project and
many happy customers were pleased with their flock. But, in 2021-22, she moved multiple times and thus didn't hatch enough replacements for her own breeding stock, lost multiple breeders to predators and old age.
Therefore, in 2023, 10 years after starting the original project,
Maria decided to "restart" the breeding program from scratch. Other than a few hens and roosters, all her current breeding stock are purebred or first-generation crosses. More "foundation breeds" have been ordered, but they won't be mature enough to breed until fall 2023 to spring 2024.
Therefore, most of 2023's chicks hatched I'm considering "barnyard mixes", because the parent stock is not yet separated into breeding groups & their offspring are the "first generation" crosses. The best of these "barnyard mixes" will be grown out for future breeders.
Below, is a list of what we currently in 2023 are offering. If you continue to scroll down, there's more details on the Catskill Homesteaders breeding goals, the "history" and the plan for the future.
Barnyard Mix
Chicks from these Breeds:
2023 Roosters:
Easter Egger, Olive Egger,
Blue Frizzle Olive Egger,
Bielefelder/Salmon Favorelle mix,
Blue Andalusian, Speckled Sussex,
Bielefelder, and two "Catskill Homesteaders".
2023 Hens:
Easter Egger, Olive Egger, Bielefelder, Speckled Sussex, Buff Orpington, Wyandotte, Barred Rock, Leghorn,
Light Brahma, Blue Rock, Welsummer, Marans, "Red Sex Links" and a few "Catskill Homesteaders"
Meat Chickens
We raise Cornish Cross for meat chickens during the summer months. They are raised inside until old enough to be moved to pasture pens, so they can have fresh air, sunshine and have access to pasture.
Processed on the farm.
Available as whole, halves or parts.
Fresh or Frozen.
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Depending on availability, slower growing "Freedom Rangers" or "Red Broilers" can be special ordered.
Blue or Black Copper Marans
We have a small breeding flock of pure French Black Copper Marans hens covered by a Blue Copper Marans rooster, plus some Olive Egger hens.
We sell hatching eggs and chicks from this group.
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Limited availability, so will likely have to go on the waiting list.
Future Breeding Goals
Having learned from the past mistakes and successes, "rebooting" our
Catskill Homesteader Chickens breeding project in 2023, these are our goals.
The Green & Olive Egger "line" - increase color variation in feather patterns and egg colors
Blue Andalusian rooster x Green Eggers = light greens or blue eggs, increase egg productivity
Blue Andalusian x Leghorns = white eggs
Bielefelder / Salmon Favorelle rooster x brown egg layers = increased feather color variation
Blue Copper "Barred" rooster x green & brown layers - see what genetics he carries.
Breeds we'll be adding in 2023, as chicks:
Blue Laced Wyandotte
Blue Laced Barnevelder
Blue Plymouth Tint
Welbar
Legbar
Bielefelder
Russian Orloff
Buckeye
Chantecler
Prairie Bluebell Egger
Sapphire Olive Egger
Catskill Homesteader Chickens
Locally Adapted, Winter-Hardy Colorful "Eye-Candy" Chickens
Laying a wide range of egg colors, including bluish green, mint green, khaki, sage,
olive, light brown, pink, medium-brown, terracotta, dark brown and speckled.
Dual-purpose eggs and meat, though slow-growing compared to Cornish Cross
Great Foragers & Excellent Broody Hens
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Careful Selection process, culling for undesirable traits & multiple breeding groups to ensure genetic diversity.
Producing Beautiful Chickens & a Colorful Egg Basket
See Photos & "Breeding Goals" Below for Details
or Our Catskill Homesteader Facebook Page
Catskill Homesteader Chickens - Breeding Goals:
1. Active Forager
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CURRENT:: Actively seeks out fresh grass, loves to dig in compost piles, eats food scraps, bugs, etc
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2016 - Did a short-term experiment where I only fed one breeding group 1 or 2 buckets of dry layer mash, but went a few days to a week on food scraps, weeds from the garden, and insects from the compost piles, which they actively dug in throughout the day. Plus, they ate fresh greens from the grass paddocks whenever they wanted. They continued to lay eggs, only dropping in production a little. However, soon after, many hens chose to go broody & hatch eggs. I don't know it that's related or not, but I returned to giving them free choice dry layer mash, so they can supplement what they are foraging.
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2019-2020 - roughly a year the chickens & meat turkeys lived on BULK food scraps and insects from the compost piles, grass from the paddocks, and didn't purchase any grain! Simply because of the quantity of food waste I was collecting through Delhi Community Compost. They continued producing eggs and chicks, so it was a success. Unfortunately, the source of bulk food waste stopped and after several months of only "compost" in stages of decomposition, their productivity started to decline. So, had to return to primarily grain-fed.
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GOAL: Little or no supplemental grain needed during summer months (diet based mostly on foraging - if supplied with enough compost, bugs, red wigglers, pasture, etc)
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2. Predator Savvy
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CURRENT:: Roosters alert flock & hens usually take cover; roosters more of a flight vs fight type. Will alert but have not witnessed them being protective. Hens alert to danger & will often spot ariel predators.
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GOAL: All hens run for cover at rooster's "predator alert" call, and roosters stand guard, willing to protect if necessary. But, roosters remain non-aggressive with humans, as they are now.
3. Winter Hardy - Locally Adapted to NY Weather, which is constantly changing day to day!​
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CURRENT: Mix of single and small combs, plus the floppy Leghorn combs, prone to frostbite. At least 2/3 of the roosters have smaller combs, so that'll help future generations. Use 14-16 hours of supplemental lighting for the hens during the winter, so maintained egg production. About 1/2 to 3/4 of the chickens left the coop even on the coldest and snowiest days, without putting down hay or bedding on the ground. Some hens preferred to stay in the coop or underneath it.
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HISTORY: Mix of single & smaller combs, but hardly any frostbite in hens. Single comb roosters sometimes get minor frostbite on combs. Young pullets & most hens continue to lay well through winter with supplemental light. In winter of 2015-2016, stopped using long-day lighting, and while some hens did molt & go through cycle of winter "resting", there was still plenty of pullets & adult hens laying eggs. Winter 2014-2015, used hay to encourage hens to come out of coops during the day. Winter 2015-2016 was mostly very mild, but when it did snow, I didn't use hay on top of the snow unless it got dirty. I noticed a difference as these subsequent generations are becoming bolder in the winter, all running out of the coops to drink, eat food, see if there's anything to forage for, etc. On cold days, they do return to the coops or shelter to warm up, but no heat lamps for these chickens! They get fresh air and can go outside in rain/snow/sleet if they so choose.
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GOAL: Mostly/all small combs, or at least small combed roosters. Single combs ok in hens, if meet other qualities, but large floppy single combs not acceptable. Hens & pullets continue to lay through winter with supplemental light, unless molting. Thick down & feathers to keep warm; active and foraging, even when cold and snow on the ground.
4. Healthy & Hardy
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CURRENT: Healthy - no known diseases or illnesses; though there's usually a small % of chicks and adolescents that "fail to thrive" - but that's part of the process to not "pamper" them but to encourage the strongest to survive. The chicks are raised in the barn, in brooders equipped with heating plates, but they have to "brave" the ambient temperature to eat and drink. Mimics the natural "broody hen" environment, rather than heat lamps, which also have a high fire risk and heats the "entire" area. It makes them feather faster, get used to various temperatures and how to adapt to survive. We wean off the heat as quickly as possible, to conserve electricity and encourage the chicks to self-regulate their temperature.
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GOAL: Strong immune system, improve survival rate in chicks and young stock; disease & stress tolerant
5. Colorful feathers
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Current: The first hatch of 2023, we got a lot of blacks, blues, white, some "chipmunk" and varied colors. I discovered one of the main Easter / Olive egger roosters carried "dominant black", so removed him from the flock, to promote more diversity.
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History: Variety of Solid Colors, Patterned, -
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Hens: mostly browns, black, black & white barred, blue, white; unique multicolored patterns.
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Roosters: red, red/white, black, brown, black & white barred, white, blue; generally, more colorful than hens w/ two or more contrasting colors
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GOAL: Wider Variety of Colors, Mostly Patterned, Laced, Multi-colored Barred, Mottled, Spangled, etc; My personal favorite is blues, the Bielefelder or Legbar pattern. Basically, so you never know what color they’ll be or their offspring will produce. Preferably three or more colors all throughout; solid (except for blues) “plain” feathered chickens not preferred.
6. "Easter Eggs" - wide range of colors
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CURRENT: - Shades of green, blue/green, green, olive, cream light brown, medium brown, dark brown, pink, white
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GOAL: Various shades of blue, green, tan, light brown, dark brown, pink, terracotta; generally the same, just a wider range of shades in each color group.
7. Productive Layers
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CURRENT: Need to sort/ cull hens to weed out non-productive or low productive hens.
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HISTORY: (With supplemental winter light) - Lay pretty much year-round, except for when molting and broody; Each hen varies, but I’d estimate young pullets & hens lay every 1-2 days, until they’re 18 months old, then it’s every 2-3 days, with occasional several days in a row, with a day or two break in between. Don’t know exactly how each hen lays once they’re 2 - 2 ½ year old & older, as they're generally in large groups. Size wise, they vary from Medium to Jumbo, but majority are large to extra large. Pullets from 2014 were laying (in 2015) pretty large, often Jumbo double-yolkers, which they stopped. Shell quality - both genetic and feed-based; mostly nice, thick shells; older hens tend to have “bumps” or thinner shells.
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GOAL: Lay year round (except for molting and brooding) with or without lighting. Would prefer long-term layers, rather than high production and quick "burn-out".
8. Dual-purpose for Meat
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CURRENT: Most were bred from egg production lines, so it takes 4-6 months to reach to "butcher size". But hopefully, can increase size over time and using better quality, stocky roosters.
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HISTORY:
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(2016) - Tried to separate young cockerels & feeding them higher protein (27%) turkey starter feed, in hopes to improve the amount of meat on them. June - processed a 6 month old cock who was 1/4 bantam cochin - he was skinny, but to be expected for part bantam. The higher protein feed helped some, but not worth the extra cost.
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(2014-2015) Hens and roosters from hatchery egg production background are generally skinny and don’t have a lot of meat on their bones. Okay for soup, but not good conversion ratio for amount of feed to amount of meat. Hens & roosters from Freedom Ranger meat hybrid line show promise of improving size and weight, even muscling more than non-FR siblings the same age. Some of the cockerels processed in 2015 showed improvement in size.
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GOAL: Not trying to compete with the Cornish Rock “big boys”, but at least enough meat on the roosters and old hens that it’s worth the work to processes them. No established weight goal yet, as ratio of meat to bone is more important than overall size.
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Catskill Homesteader Chickens History
I think the very beginning of this journey was when I ended up keeping "Rocky" the Freedom Ranger Rooster (meat hybrid). I'd never had a rooster before, as I'd heard about all the "mean roosters" people end up with. But, "Rocky" was such a sweet, gentle giant that I knew I wanted to always have a rooster. But knowing that he was supposed to be for meat, I started a search for another rooster to replace him. It just "happened" that the family who originally gave me my first five hens ended up with an extra chick in their all hen order who was a rooster. So, "Michael" the Blue Andalusian came home with me, and "Rocky" went into the freezer.
"Michael", though, was the exact opposite of "Rocky" - tall, skinny, high-energy & aggressive towards humans. He was quite handsome, which was one redeeming feature, but his very large single comb wasn't ideal for our NY winters. Therefore, when I placed my chick order for April 2012, I ordered several breeds of roosters, as I was hoping to breed my own "sex-links" using small combed roosters.
But, when Daisy, a white EE hen, went broody, I though I'd give a few eggs to her to hatch out. Two of the three resulting chicks ended up being roosters, so I gave them to a friend. These Catskill Homesteader chickens wouldn't be where it is today, if that friend hadn't returned those roosters to me in the fall. I was intending on just processing them, as I already had too many roosters. But one of the young cockerels caught my eye. He was blue like his father, "Michael", but had gold and red feathers on his neck & wings. He won a place in my heart, so he stayed. I named him "Michael Jessie", and he soon became my favorite rooster, above the other pure bred roosters I'd ordered. Before "Michael" went to a new home, he fathered more chicks, three pullets of which I kept.
Those "unplanned" hatches of 2012 changed my plans for what I wanted to breed in 2013, and my original plans for "sex-links" was no longer a priority. I spent hours on BYC, looking at photos and reading about breeding, eventually finding out about several inspiring breeds and crosses that inspired me to experiment with my own flock. For example, the Swedish Flower Hens and Icelandics, which are "a box of chocolates", meaning you never know what the chicks will look like when they have grown up. I've also been inspired by another breeding project, Aloha chickens that's using the mottled gene for "splashy, colorful" chickens.
Like the Swedish Flower Hens, Icelandics & Aloha Chickens, the Catskill Homesteader chickens are not a recognized pure breed.
Some may be consider them as "mutts" or a "barnyard mix", but many of the crosses were intentional and planned, with lots of culling and carefully selecting the best along the way. And they are now several generations from their original hatchery relatives.
I originally started calling them "Wildflower Easter Eggers", but after some confusion with the "Easter Eggers" commonly sold by hatcheries, I decided it would be best to have an original, "different" name. Hence, the idea of "Catskill Homesteader" chickens was hatched, named after the beautiful, rugged Catskill Mountains, and "Homesteader" after the pioneers who withstood many hardships on the frontier, many of whom had chickens that were much better at being "self-sufficient" than today's grain-fed poultry.
Breeds Used in Creating
the "Original" Catskill Homesteader Chickens
2013-2022:
Blue Andalusian (BA) - white egg; blue feathers; single comb
Easter Egger (EE) - green egg; multi-colored feathers; pea comb
Dominique (DOM) - medium brown egg; black/white barred feathers; rose comb
Partridge Chantecler (PC) - med br egg; partridge feathers; cushion comb; broody
Partridge Rock (PR) - light br egg; partridge feathers; single comb
Golden-Laced Wyandotte (GLW) - med br egg; golden-laced feathers; rose comb
Freedom Ranger (FR) - meat hybrid; lt-med br egg; brown/orange feathers; single comb
“Joseph” (unknown cross) - br egg; orange/red/black w/ slight barring; single comb; came from TSC as “Barred Rock”, but obviously was a mix.
Black Sex Link (BSL) - med br egg; black with red neck; single comb (only 1 hen offspring, not sure if still have any left from that line)
Rhode Island White (RIW) - br egg; white; single comb (sold most of their offspring, as mostly made "Red Sex Links" and white chicks)
Red Star (RS) - dk br egg; red/brown/white feathers; single comb
(Note: I have now decided to eliminate the Red Sex Link hybrid from the breeding program due to the high frequency of reproductive issues when crossing with other breeds. The one exception is a FR/DOM x RS that I'll be hatching from in 2015, to "test" if she has better genes.)
In 2015, Crossed CH with:
Swedish Flower Hen (SFH) - light br egg; multicolored feathers; single comb;
Bielefelder (BIEL) - dark terricotta, speckled egg; multi-colored barred; single comb
Blue Copper Maran MIX (BCMx) - unrelated rooster from Blue Copper Marans(R) x (? hen) parantage; blue, black, gold; single comb
Buckeye/Buff Orp rooster